At the heart of every beautiful object is good design and excellence in design and conceptualization is what lies in the basic DNA of every Louis Moinet watch. Like in architecture, watchmaking uses shapes, proportions, perspectives, empty and full parts, layers and steps, in order to create a three dimensional object. This is what Louis Moinet has done to perfection in their new watch, the Metropolis.
More contemporary, more sculptural and still with a proprietary movement of great quality but with a more aggressive price policy the Metropolis is a classic timepiece. When you look at the Louis Moinet offerings, you immediately spot two important characteristics. First, their watches are bold, extremely well designed, very unique in terms of style and very strong. Secondly, their watches are (most of them) very complex pieces – not surprising when you know that Louis Moinet invented the chronograph.
The catalogues comprise a double-tourbillon with animated dial, some complex chronographs or automaton pieces. Then again, good for hardcore watchlovers, but not what can be called accessible. With the Louis Moinet Metropolis, the brand wants to open new horizons, without losing its DNA.
The Louis Moinet Metropolis is slightly more modest than the rest of the collection, not just in terms of price, but also in terms of mechanical content and style. It is more modern too, with a contemporary approach, slightly less heavy than before. “Metropolis is a city watch,” explains Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO of Ateliers Louis Moinet. “It combines ergonomics with design, and function with style. We’ve broken free of neoclassical conventions and adopted a committed, contemporary approach that’s unlike anything we’ve done before.” Yet, if there is a fresh wind going over this collection, the basics of the brand are still here, and don’t get this wrong, Metropolis is still bold, still strong and still mechanically desirable.”
The design of the Louis Moinet Metropolis plays on three levels of skeletonization: on the hour markers, on the dial, and on the lugs and vertical bridges. As said, this watch does play a lot with proportions, shapes, voids and structures. First its case – a 43.2mm steel or 18k pink gold case, with a brand new style for the brand, dubbed Neo. Everything is built around two vertical bridges running through the timepiece, securing the strap at each end of their lugs – the latter incorporating the third and final openwork finish on the watch. The bridges hold the movement’s housing, topped by the bezel and its six screws – another of Louis Moinet’s hallmarks.
The dial creates a sensation of light and lightness, even in a bold design. The brand uses for the first time Roman numerals, but not in a simple, stamped way. To bring depth, these hour markers are suspended mid-air. Each marker is linked to a central ring and a dark grey flange made from neoralithe, an innovative material chosen by Louis Moinet for its transparency and purity. Each marker is also highly decorated, with a diamond-cut, satin-finish section that reflects light. Into these markers is a contrasting lacquer – in white for watches with a rose gold case, and in blue for watches with a steel case. Underneath this complex aerial structure is a partially opened black plate, which, between 8 and 10 brings a view on the balance, the escapement and the bridges that hold them in place. Not too much skeletonized, just enough to enliven the dial.
What about the movement? If this watch wants to be more accessible, it has to make concessions on the mechanical side. Well, in fact, it does only few. Of course, don’t expect here to find a complex chronograph or a double-tourbillon. The Louis Moinet Metropolis is a three-hander (hours and minutes on the central axis, small second at 9). Yet, its movement is very pleasant. Unique to the brand (proprietary movement), developed and manufactured by Concepto, the LM45 caliber is a modern automatic movement, with 4Hz frequency and 48-hour power reserve.
The Louis Moinet Metropolis is secured to the wrist by a qualitative hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather strap with alligator lining, with a folding clasp decorated with Louis Moinet symbol, the Fleur de Lys. The Louis Moinet Metropolis will be available in spring 2017, in two initial limited editions of 60 pieces, in steel and 18k rose gold.
